Not the subatomic particles, or even the ubiquitous Central European condiment beloved by Germans and Austrians and generously slathered on bread and jam. This Quark, seriously in need of recognition – or a more appropriately descriptive name – is a creamy Vermont version, smooth of both texture and taste and yet sparing of fat. This Quark is a simple, versatile little miracle of cow’s milk cheese-making and smartly deserving of more attention by both fine and healthy food fans.

Unlike Fromage Blanc, Quark takes well to heat and doesn’t easily separate. It has, however, a fragile curd – never far from its pure milk base, to which it reverts to when cooked, leaving behind its silky texture and refined tang.

To familiarize you with the virtues of this unique high protein, low fat fresh cheese, here are a few simple ways to serve it, not requiring the specifics of a recipe.

• Sauté 1-1/2 pounds of fresh spinach in a tablespoon or two of butter with a clove of crushed garlic and minced shallots. Season the mixture and fold in a cup of Quark. Heat over a low setting and sprinkle with grated parmesan to serve.
  
• For a quick and easy canapé, cut unpeeled, new potatoes in half crosswise, spray lightly with oil, and season with salt and pepper. Roast in a 400˚ oven until tender and hollow out with a melon baller. Fill the cavity with Quark mixed with minced dill, parsley and grated horseradish or, in lieu of horseradish, simply garnish with slivered radishes.
  
  
• Another use for horseradish spiked Quark is to garnish crostini, which has been lightly brushed with olive oil, and drape with thinly sliced rare roast beef.